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Five different types of urticating hairs are
known. One type is laid in the webbing where the tarantula lives,
preventing parasitic fly larvae from crawling into the web to attack
the egg sac. Other types penetrate skin, mucus membranes, and eyes. An
animal that attempts to eat the tarantula may get a faceful of the
hairs, causing the eyes to water, the nose to itch, the breathing
passages to swell shut, and the lips and tongue to become irritated.
Tarantulas that are very irritable or that have been mishandled frequently throw hairs. This can produce bald patches, sometimes covering almost their whole abdomen. When the spiders molt, the new exoskeleton has a complete set of new hairs. Students should not breathe in while holding their faces at the top of the aquarium. If, while being held, a tarantula throws hairs on a student's hand, simply blow them off. Rarely can they penetrate the thickened skin of the hand, but they can embed in the soft skin of the inner arm. This spot will become red and itchy but will disappear after one or two days. If the spider throws hairs, collect them with an alcohol-dampened paintbrush and mount them on a slide to observe under the microscope (Fig. 5).
Figure 5 Urticating hairs are a defense mechanism used to keep predators away. The hairs are not poisonous, but can cause irritation if embedded in the skin.
MoltingTarantulas will normally stop feeding several days before they molt. The molting process takes several hours. It begins with the spider lying on its back, and since spiders do not die on their backs, this position only indicates molting. Do not touch the tarantula until the day after the molt to make sure the exoskeleton has hardened enough to protect it.
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HousingWater should always be available in small dishes or petri plates that are easy to clean and refill. Spraying or misting water on the arboreal materials is also beneficial as long as the materials are allowed to dry between sprays. Temperature is important because most species are tropical or subtropical. If the room remains at a constant 21-24 degrees C (70-75 degrees F), no other heating is necessary. Do not allow the aquarium to get much warmer than 26 degrees C (80 degrees F), or cooler than 18 degrees C (65 degrees F). If the classroom temperature drops low at night or on weekends, a heater may be necessary. Substrate heaters are good, but avoid heat lamps or light bulbs for tarantulas.
Study
Further ReadingMilne, Lorus, and Margery Milne. 1992. The Audubon Society Field Guide to North American Insects and Spiders. Alfred A. Knopf, New York. O'Toole, Christopher. 1993. The Encyclopedia of Spiders. Facts on File, New York.
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Copyright © 1994 by Carolina Biological. This article may be reproduced for classroom use only; for other uses please contact Carolina Tips Editor.